Sunday, February 28, 2010

Lessons on How to Eat Bread

As much as I enjoy being around everyone in the village, it's very important for me to have friends outside of the village. Kigali is an hour away...I do have friends there but it's far and I can only get there about 2 times a month. Rubona is the closest village with place to buy things. It reminds me of a South Georgia flea market with no paved roads and bicycles instead of cars. On Tuesday and Friday center of Rubona is bustling with people buying goods at the market and the other days it looks like a ghost town expect for the bike shop and local bar where you're always sure to find people. It's hard to describe...it's like no place I've ever seenbefore. I'm going to take pictures and give a tour of Rubona. I have come to love the little village.

We had a sick mother cow on the farm because she had a hard labor. There was a vet that came to check on her. One day the vet brought someone that was learning to be a vet. He's just a year older than me and we became friends. He was one of the only English speakers and helped to fill me in on what was happening with the cow. I enjoyed speaking with him and we made plans for me to visit him at his home in Rubona.

Last weekend I visited him and I really enjoyed meeting his family. There house is behind the market and next to the bicycle parking lot. He lives with his aunt, uncle, and their family of 4 children. There's also another boy that lives with them who is 21 and speaks english very well. He told me that his family is very poor and came to live with this family because the mother love Jesus. This was his words and I found it funny the way that he said it. I think it's wonderful how giving this family is to him. I stayed at there home for a few hours and enjoyed speaking with them. I even got delicious bread and fanta. It was so awkward when they brought out the bread. 3 pieces of bread were brought out and 1 fork. I took a piece of bread and then the mama through tranlation asked why I didn't wash my hands. I didn't know what to say or do...I finally said that I had washed them at home. Everyone else was using their hands, why couldn't I? The father came in a little later and I learned that he's a farmer and grows many things. When I heard this through translation, I said oh that's cool, he's a farmer just like me! I think they were very surprised and laughed. We decided that we'd visit each others farm. They asked about computers and wondered if I would teach them, we made plans to have a lesson the next weekend.

I arrived at their home on Saturday for a computer lesson...how do you teach computers to someone who has never used one? We started with the basics on turning it off and on. I'm a tough teacher and even gave them homework. They have to study the different keys, where they are located, and their function. I realized after that I would even have a problem with this assignment. I was even given the delicious bread again and banana juice (it was my first time having it...and it was tasty!) After the week before, I was not sure how to eat the bread. The mama finally brought out a small bag that I was to use as a glove to eat the bread. Out of the 2 other people, one used his hands and the other used a fork. The different ways to eat the bread made me laugh.

I really enjoy my time with the family and look forward to seeing them again soon! I have many families in Rwanda...that's one of the wonderful things about this country, you always have family around. At school I studied child and family development and one of my classes was on families. In the class we tried to define what a family is and I think this country is making me redefine what is family.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

1st Rwandan Cowgirl

I want to get a sense of what is happening on the farm and the roles of all the workers. I decided that I would take a day to shadow different workers. Today I began with the cows. I arrived to the farm around 6 and got to work. My first task was to milk the cows. The cow man in the village is so fast at milking. I’ve never seen someone milk the way the he does. As he crouches next to the cow, he looks so compact. I don’t think I could get that low. He puts the bucket between his legs and used both hands. It was my turn next. I held the bucket in one hand and milked with other. I’m left handed and was milking with my left hand. The men kept telling me to switch hands. I tried to explain that I use my left hand. It was hard at first. I’m used to milking goats not cows and began to milk the way to do goats. The cow man said that I could come again and in a few days I’d be great.

Next it was time to take the cows for a walk. They get walked around the perimeter of the village which is 6km. We took 6 grown cows and 2 of the babies with us. I went with one of the workers who is trying very hard to learn English. He also asked me if girls in America work with cows. I told him that a girl can work with cows if she chooses. He seemed surprised (I love to surprise and shock the workers, there are many thoughts here of who does what, I like to think that I’m changing some of those perceptions). I enjoyed the walk…especially when we reached a certain point that has many fruit trees. I (along with the cows) ate many, many mangos. I didn’t think anyone/thing could eat as many mangos as me…I think the cows win. I even ate guava for the first time. I learned all the places with fruit trees that others do not know about. When I brought back many avocados everyone began asking where to get them. I think I’m keep them as my secret.  

Monday, February 22, 2010

Ode to the Unexpected

I get asked from many Rwandans that I meet what's the difference between Rwanda and the United States...there are MANY differences. The biggest one that I keep coming back to is the difference in the way people view time. Things just don't happen when you want or expect them to happen. I've experienced this on numerous occasions and I'm becoming the queen of patience. But lately I'm been surprised. It's so incredible when people surprise you. I've been thinking about those little things that people do that can change your day around. Last week, I was trying for many days to get a driver to take stones from the school to the farm so that we can finish the second chicken coop. I'm not allowed to drive...sometimes it would make my life so much easier if I could just drive in the village. Finally we agreed on Saturday. On Friday we came to my house and was ready to drive! I was shocked and so happy that I didn't have to keep chasing him down. It felt good to have confidence that even with the way they view time, people surprise you and things happen. Today I walked into lunch late (when you come in late, it's hard to find a plate and food). I was dreading having to run around to find a plate. I walked in and someone that I didn't even know just handed me a plate. They were both very small things that made my day.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Respecting Hard Work

I woke up this morning at the normal time and headed to the farm. Solomon came late and before he arrived, the workers broke out in a singing and dance party. I had so much fun with the workers today. It began to rain (the workers do not work in the rain, I was told tonight that it’s because most only have one pair of clothes so if they get wet on Tuesday then the rest of the week they have wet clothes). We headed inside to crack open the shells of peanuts and get the get the peanuts out. I ended up staying inside with about 20 workers for about 2 hours. I was so awesome just hang out with them as we worked. They are starting to open up to me (well, as much as they can through the one good English speaker). They were singing and having a great time. This is why I love to travel, you meet such interesting people and get insight into their lives.

One of the main reasons that I love farming is that working hard truly pays off and you get to see the fruits of your labor. Hard working is one of the characteristics that I value most in people. In Rwandan culture people have defined roles. For example if you are a truck driver, you would never help to load the truck. This observation was explained to the volunteers at our training in New York before coming to Rwanda. The example that was given was that for one of the homes, the person that did the concrete floors was admiring his work but also puzzled when one of the staff walked past. The staff person asked what the problem was and the person replied it’s a shame that no one installed the pipes in the flooring. It was not that worker's place to do the job of another or to check up on why it was not done. He had a job and carried it out.

I also witnessed an example of this. In Rwanda you show respect for someone when you shake their hand by placing your left hand by your elbow. Some of the farm workers and I were unloading pineapple plants at the farm while some of the counselors were sitting in the car. I couldn’t believe that they weren’t helping. It would have made the process much faster but that’s not their role. One of the counselors gets out of the car and is greeted by one of the workers in the way you do for someone you want to respect. That counselor then proceeded to tell us to work faster because he wanted to leave. This whole interaction was frustrating on many levels. How could the worker (who was working very hard) show respect for someone who was pushing him to work faster while he was just sitting there? In Rwandan society he was someone that the worker should show respect for. The counselor asked us to work faster again so I grabbed his hand and brought him over to where we were unloading and instructed him to work. He began to complain that he might get dirty.

I witnessed a house mother drop something. She was sitting next to one of the students and hit that person on the knee with the notebook in her hand. The student then leaned down to pick up the object. I asked one of the staff about this. This is very common they said. It's not the house mother's role, she has the kids to do it for her. I was also told that in the beginning, house mothers and counselors had the students do their laundry. It was explained to me that the kids are there so why should they do it was the attitude of the house mothers and counselors. It has gotten much better since the beginning.

Who should be respected and how do you show that? It’s something that I have been thinking about for a few days. Does respect come from where you were born or how you act? Most of the workers shake my hand in the respectful way because I’m their supervisor and from another place. I hope they also do this for the way I treat them and the relationship that we’ve created.  

Monday, February 15, 2010

Another Week in Rwanda

So much happened last week that I want to talk about. The electricity has been out most days and I’m so busy on the farm and in the village which has put me behind on my blogging.

Last Saturday night I ate meat for the first time in 4 and a half years. I was not expecting to do it. I went on a long run with one of my roommates. We finished our run at the local bar and ordered drinks. The next thing I know is that they bring brochettes (goat meat). My two friends invite me to taste and I explain that I do not eat meat. They ask me why and I explain that I’m not against eating meat just against the industry in the states. We begin to talk about how this meat is raised (it was raised by a family down the road with the goat eating grasses) and I decide to have a bite…and I do have to say that it was delicious. I went to the same bar again Friday night with Solomon and again ate the meat. It’s still hard for me to believe that I ate it.

I’m learning so much about raising livestock and got to take part in my first birthing of a cow. Just as I was about to leave for lunch on Thursday, I was told that one of the cows was about to have a baby. I was excited for the opportunity to take part and try to help as much as possible. I learned how to tell that a cow is about to have a baby…I’m gaining all this very useful knowledge…lol. We have a new healthy baby boy. The farm workers asked me if it was my first time taking part in a birth…I said yes…and remembered to say the shechechyanu. I tried to explain it to the workers but I don’t think they understood when I began to speak in a funny language.

Saturday was filled with joy and sorrow. I organized a ceremony for the harvest of the first pineapple that was to take place on Saturday. I also bought 700 new pineapple plants to be planted by the students for the occasion. Saturday began as any other day. I got up at 6:10 and headed to the farm to prepare for the kids beginning to work at 7. When I arrived I soon learned from one of the workers (he doesn’t speak any English so the interaction was done in grunts and hand gesters) that another cow was going to have a baby. This was to be the third cow born in a week. The baby was coming out just as the kids began to arrive. Things became hectic as I tried to assist with the birth and direct 220 kids to where they were working. (There had been a problem with everyone arriving very late so I told the counselors and house mothers that if their whole family comes on time that everyone would get a treat from the farm. This week we had 4 families that actually came on time!) Many kids began to assist with the birth and the milking of the other cows (the cow man was unable to milk the other cows so the kids just did it, they didn’t even need any direction in what to do…I realized that this is a big difference with the kids here and from the states…I couldn’t imagine if people from my high school were expected to milk cows). After a little while the cow began to have problems. The baby was just too big to come out. A specialist and vet were called to come. Just as the ceremony was about to begin, we all heard that the baby cow did not make it and that the mom would have to have surgery. The happiness of harvesting the first pineapple was jaded by our loss. The ceremony still went great with 5 pineapples being harvested…and in Rwandan tradition there were many speeches. The kids from last year planted the pineapple so it was nice that they were then able to harvest the fruits of their labor.

It was sad and hard to lose a cow. Everyone was very supportive. It was a long week and I was ready to get away from the village. I traveled to Kigali to meet up with my friends there. They introduced me to hashing. Hashing is a social group that goes on runs and hikes. They say they are a drinking group with a running problem. I got initiated into the group with some embarrassing questions and chugging a glass of beer. It was great fun and I’m excited to get involved. They meet every week and you can choose to run or hike the trail. The run was beautiful on the hillside outside of Kigali.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Random Adventures

I seem to get myself into some crazy adventures. This one is up there as one of the most random adventures…ever. It begins like this…I was reading the Bract Travel Guide to Rwanda and there was an article about a man who built some solar ovens in Rwanda. I sent him an email and told him that I was interested in building one at the village. He wrote back the next day and was very helpful. He has since left Rwanda and returned to his home in South Africa. He suggested that I go and visit a South African couple that are doctors in Rwanda. He gave them one of the ovens. As I set out on Sunday morning to find them, the only thing that I knew was that they are doctors at the hospital in Gahini. My plan was to just go to the hospital and ask around. Two of the other volunteers were headed to a lake that’s located very close to Gahini so we went together. I was an experience from the very beginning….

We took a moto for about 20 minutes to catch the bus. On the moto ride, my whole bag opened up and the things inside were all over the road. I began to yell…STOP at the driver. We turned around and about 15 kids came running with my things. I recovered everything but some food and my book.

After a long bus ride we arrived at Jambo Beach. It’s at a beautiful lake and it was so peaceful to sit there. After we ate, I left my friends and headed up a long hill for a walk to Gahini. I arrived at the hospital and began lurking around. I finally found someone that worked there and inquired with them. The woman pointed me in the direction of another doctor. The doctor was so nice and walked me to their home. Unfortunately, they were not home. I wasn’t sure what to do. I decided to leave a note. The doctor I was with finally found their phone number and we called. I waited at his home until I was trying to contact the South African doctors. I finally reached them and he said he was on his way. I was relieved that I would actually meet them! When he arrived I couldn’t believe it. I saw him while I was at Jambo Beach and didn’t even know it was them. He drove me back to Jambo Beach. I sat with them for awhile and they even invited me back to their home for coffee and cake…boy was that a treat! Their home is beautiful. It’s up on a hill overlooking the lake. They are doing such amazing work in the Gahini community and around Rwanda. I still can’t believe that I was brave enough to just show up and meet them. They said that many people do it and they are glad to meet me. I was relieved. If I was them, I don’t know what I would think if some random person showed up at their home. I’m looking forward to staying in touch with them! I love making friends!

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Life and Death at Agahozo.....It's A Girl!!!

Mother went through a hard labor and finally gave birth at around 4:18pm to a healthy baby girl. Both mother and daughter are doing very well.

Check out the pics!!!!

Friday, February 5, 2010

Sometimes you learn the hard way...

This blog post is not easy to write. I just want to put that out there. I debated even posting this but here I go. Yesterday started out like any morning. I got up early to be at the farm at 6:45. I’m been working ever since I arrived on the arrival of chickens in the village. I made many trips to Kigali to talk with someone who is knowledgeable about chickens, learn about and buy vaccines, purchase the food, get heaters, and a few other things to prepare for their arrival. I’ve been so excited and told everyone about their arrival. I even told one of the people here that I was going to set up my tent by their house so I could check up on them in the night (I think she thought I was serious and she said I was crazy). I got a call soon after I arrived at the farm from the assistant director of the village, Alain. He told me that he found a place to get chickens but we must pick them up today! I couldn’t believe it…we were actually going to pick them up.

I had a meeting that I needed to go to in order to inform all the counselors where their family would be working on the farm on Saturday. I gave my announcements and headed back to the farm to set up the chicken coop for the arrival of its new residents. We had all the supplies but we didn’t have anything set up because we didn’t expect to get them so fast. I had such a blast with the workers setting up the coop. We spread out wood chips and laid out food and water. One of the workers came in and asked how the chickens know how to get into the laying boxes and lay their eggs there. I was asked this question through another one of the workers who speaks English well. I told him that it was his job to sit in the box and teach the hens how to do it. They couldn’t believe I said that…all the workers looked at me like I was crazy. I told the worker that knows English that it was a joke and then all the workers were laughing. We have so many fun bonding moments.

I left around 1 for Kigali. We brought a truck with us that had the back closed because it was raining. We had many errands to do while in Kigali, before and after getting the chickens. After a few errands, we went to pick up Alain’s brother who was going to help us get the hens. We drove out to pick up the newest members of the Agahozo family. We got 300, 45 day old hens and placed them in the back of the car. We had more errands to do including picking up one of the kids at the hospital. We had to wait a while at the hospital. Time works so differently here…nothing is quick. We noticed that the back was getting warm so we made sure the windows were open.

We arrived back to Agahozo around 9:30 and headed to the chicken coop to unload the new arrivals. As we began to open the boxes, we noticed that some of the chickens weren’t moving. We lost 95 of the 300 hens. It hurt when the reality hit me. I felt like crying(no tears came though). I had many thoughts and emotions that were coming to me. Why didn’t I insist on coming straight back to Agahozo? I should have opened the back to allow more air. Lots of I wish and I should have…sometimes lessons are learned the hard way. I know what I’ll do next time. Whenever people make mistakes we have the phrase all least no one died…in this case they did…and it’s hard. The director of the village was understanding and comforting. There were still a few that didn’t look good. I walked back to the coop by myself to check on the hens and move the dead ones away from the others.

It was around 11 when I was back at the coop. It was great to see others ones busy eating and drinking. It’s hard for the ones that we lost but I realized that now we have 205 to tend to. I went over to the ones that didn’t look good and tried to encourage them (in the morning we only lost one of the ones that didn’t look good from the night before).
In the morning it was hard to explain what happened to the workers. Finally the one that speaks English arrived and helped to explain. Some of the workers helped me dig a hole.

I wrote this post when I was upset. It helped to write this to put out there how I feel. I know that it’s a bit dramatic but sometimes it happens. Last night and today weren’t easy. It’s part of being a farmer. Sometimes you learn the hard way. I feel much better now. The girls in my family came over after dinner. We drank tea, listened to music and took pictures. They’re so much fun to be around!

Monday, February 1, 2010

A Walk to Town

Yesterday I got a call from a friend of mine that lives in Rubona (the closest small town which has a market 2 days a week) and he told me that he's sick. I was in Kigali so I couldn't bring him anything. I gave him a call the next day and asked if I could bring him anything...he asked for some water because his house doesn’t have good drinking eater so I decided to walk to his home (located 20 minutes from the youth village). We are located in the eastern province. The area is very rural and every house has its own vegetables surrounding. Most are made of cement and local materials. There's lots of poverty in the area and many grow just enough to be able to eat.

The walk was very interesting. Everyone on the road stopped and starred as I walked past. Whenever I was passed there were cries of muzungu…muzungu…..muzungu! These were usually followed by a flock of young kids running after me. Many of the kids say good morning…even though it was the evening…I think it’s the only English many know. As I walked there was a girl that followed me for about half the distance. About half way to my friend’s home a teenage boy come running after me. I felt that he was very brave for coming up to me. I’m still not sure why he came up to me…couldn’t figure out if he was asking for money or just wanted to practice English and have someone to talk to. He told me where he was from and a little about himself. He told me that he doesn’t have any family and might have to drop out of school because he has no one to pay this school fees. I later learned from one of my roommates that this is common in Rwanda. Kids get a free education in primary school and then for secondary school, they must pay. Because there are so many orphans in Rwanda, the government can’t afford to pay. This is a hard situation for many teens (that’s one of the great things about Agahozo, it provides education for teens in need!). I enjoyed the conversation with boy and I continue to get insight into what life is like in Rwanda for people. He was very nice and even asked about my life.

On the way back from my friend’s house, I hopped on a moto taxi because it was getting dark. The moto rides switch between being terrifying and exhilarating. Sometimes I feel like I’m on a roller coaster ride.

Beans Blowin' in the Wind

It’s been awhile since I have posted. Life’s busy here and full of excitement. For the past week, we haven’t had electricity from 8am-5pm which makes working on the computer a challenge.

My mornings begin around 6:20 and I’m at the farm at 6:45. I never know what each day might have in store for me. Sometimes I spend most of the day on the farm while other days I’m in meetings, preparing for the arrival of 350 chicks, or working on the computer to keep everything on the farm organized. Salomon and I are working on having the farm act as a business. We are going to “sell” produce to the village’s kitchen (no money will actually be exchanged) so that we can see how much we are producing. I like the flexibility of my days. In the evenings, I try to spend time with my family. My days feel like camp days…with each day feeling like a week and a week feeling like a day.

I’m learning so much here…both skills and dos and don’ts of Rwanda. I just learned that in Rwandan culture shoes don’t go on the carpet…this was after many times of walking on the carpet. Also, do not ask someone how many cows they own. This is the equivalent of asking someone how much money that they make and seen as rude.

Some of my favorite interactions on the farm are with the 5 females that work on the farm. Sometimes I wish that I knew what they were thinking. They enjoying laughing at me or better than that, laughing with me. They are teaching me so many skills. I learned the process of getting the beans ready. First you harvest the beans, you then lay them out in the sun to dry, after that you pile them up and beat them with a stick (my hand is covered with blisters from this step), and the last step (and my favorite part) is separating the beans from the dirt and left over dry plant pieces. The girls taught me how to separate. You put the mix in a basket and hold it with your hands at belt level. With your feet together and a flick of the wrist the beans go up in the air. The wind lifts the dirt and residue away. I’m so glad that they’re patient with me. I spent hours this week doing this…and it’s the best workout…maybe I’ll make a video…Get in Shape, Become a Farmer! I see it as the next craze in the states!

On Friday, I began to teach English to the farm workers. There were able 25 people. It was very nerve racking…for those of you who know me well, know my own difficulties with English. (My sister was proofreading my application for this position and called me up. She asked about my English abilities. I asked her why. Apparently on the application, I marked my English ability as poor. She thought it was a joke to see if she actually read it.) I wish there was another English speaker there not just for the help but to have a good laugh after my class. I have various levels from knowing nothing to able to understand most everything that I say. At the end of the class I asked if anyone has any questions. I don’t think they understood. I was asking if there were any English questions but they thought questions in general. I began to get questions about money and time on the farm. I decided to have a time for English and a time for a farm meeting.

The weekend was spent in Kigali and it was lots of fun! I’m really enjoying meeting people. All the foreigners that I meet here are all doing such cool and fascinating things. On the plane I made this incredible woman who has been living in Rwanda for over a year and teaches how to teach English. She has traveled the world and wrote a few books. In the airport she introduced me to people that she works with. I met up with them this past weekend and I’m excited for friends outside the village. They took me to a bar that a Rwandan friend owns. We were the only foreigners there. The area that it’s in is very lively and happening place late at night. Mara and I met this guy who’s a dentist and is starting clinics in Rwanda. We had a great conversation with him and he might even build one of his clinics by the village! Mara and I played an ultimate frisbee game at the local sports complex with some Rwandan teenagers…the game was great and encourages us to start a teen at the village.

Tu bishv’at (the b-day of trees) was this weekend. We had some kids over on Friday night to celebrate with us. I got to eat a new tree fruit…jackfruit! It’s so slimy and delicious!