Don't Drink the Banana Beer

I have a philosophy in life that one must work hard and then play hard. For me, both are equally. You can see how I live my life that I take this to heart. I also apply this idea when I supervise others...everyone must have the opprtunity to celebrate successes.

I decided it was time to have a celebration with the farm workers for all their hard work and suggested it to Solomon. I said that everyone could come to my house for tea and some food. Solomon laughed at me as he usually does and said that the workers are grown men. He then suggested that we have a party in Rubona with beer, food, and music...I agreed that it was a good idea! On Tuesday morning at around 8 Solomon and I road to Rubona on our "pick-up." It's our bike that lately breaks everytime we ride. Solomon pedals and I sit on the back. When we were in Rubona we went to a few different places to sample the local banana beer. We even saw some people make it...after seeing it I should have known not to drink.

The party was on Wednesday and boy was it a party. The first great thing was that it rained after too long without...being on a farm, that was definitely worth celebrating! The rain flooded Solomon's house so we moved the party to a woman's house in town. Most all of the workers came. The party started slow as people sipped on fanta and banana beer. I insisted to Solomon that he bring his music. He began by playing slower Christain music and then the Rwandan hip-hop came one (which I love). I got up to dance and some of the workers followed. Those that didn't dance enjoyed laughing at me and the others dancing. We even had a large group of kids in the doorway and windows enjoying watching the celebration.

The night was AWESOME!!!! I had a great time just chilling with everyone. I realized as I sat there that these are the experiences that will make my time in Rwanda. At the end there were many speaches (you can't have a celebration in Rwanda without them!) I even spoke and told everyone that when I return from vacation that they must help me to learn kinyarwanda...the next speach I give will be done all in kinyarwanda.

I had some of the banana beer at the party and I'm still feeling it's affects 2 days after. My tummy does not like it. A lesson learned but worth it for the fun night!

Experiencing the Roller Coaster

I just went to check my posts and I couldn't believe how long it has been since I wrote a post...too long! There are so many things that have been happening not to write. I have though written a list of topics that I want to blog about so hopefully soon you will be more about life here. Next week I'm headed to Ethiopia and Israel so there are many adventures ahead!

This night's post needs to be written about one of the things that has been distracting me from writing in my blog...a book. I got the book from the library here and it was recommended to me by one of the volunteers. It's called a A Fine Balance and it's a 600 page book depicting life of 2 tailors in 21st century India. It portrayed the ups and downs of the life of these 2 men and the people who interact with them. It was a roller coaster ride for them. It seems to be fitting for me to be reading this book, as I'm experiencing my own ride. It's nice to ride someone else's train...even if it's fiction. It helps to put life in perspective. It's a bit heavy and I'm feeling its affects after finishing the read.

I tried to explain the book to one of my close Rwandan friends and all he could say was that would never happen. I tried to explain that it was historical fiction and similar things happened to many people during that time in Africa. He was making fun of me for taking the book so seriously...it bothered me at the time and I couldn't figure out why. I finally realized why his comments affected me as they did. My friend has also experienced many hardships in life from the genocide. He had to flee his home during the genocide. I've only learned parts of his story. From what I learned, his father and 2 sibling died in the conflict. He even returned home to find his home destroyed. I'm sure there are many books written about the genocide that people read and say that it could never happen. I even hear and read storied and think to myself there's no way anything like that could ever happen...people are just not that cruel. Everyone has their own history...some are not always as easy as others.

I'm learning first hand accounts of the hardships of living here. It's part of my roller coaster ride. It's hard when workers on the farm come up to me and ask for money not because they want something but because if they don't have the money, they won't eat that day. It's hard knowing that reality from people who I not only work with but have become my friends and people that I spend my day working and laughing with. The reality is not always easy. It's hard to describe accept for being heavy. Sometimes I wish the weight would lighten. It does fluctuate as I'm embarking on the ride. There have also been many ups on my ride here which help to balance the heaviness and loneliness that's inevitable from living somewhere so far from home. I love being here and experiencing everything.

Chicken Expert...who would have thought?

It's been awhile since I have posted on the blog. I've been very busy and time seems to fly. I have many projects on the farm. The main projects that I’m devoting my time to are installing an irrigation system, creating a chicken business, and finding and cultivating an area for the 16 families to have their own area to farm. The chicken business is the project that will generate a lot of money for the village. I’m learning more about chickens then I ever thought possible. Who knew that I would go to Rwanda and return an expert on raising chickens…I sure didn’t! I’m creating a business plan and marketing materials for the business. Right now the plan is to bring 2,400-3,000 birds…I’m going to have lots of babies now. I’ve been meeting with an Israeli man in Kigali and learning the whole process of raising hens. We also had some visitors come two days ago that are creating a hens laying egg business with about 10,000 chickens. These men work for Tyson Chicken and an NGO called Bridge to Rwanda. The man from Tyson gave me so much useful information. I learned that the most important way to know the health of the flock is by the uniformity of the size of the birds. You also have to have the same person caring for them or they can get depressed. They are going to be such a great contact and opportunity for me to learn more. I showed them around the village…they were so impressed and it made me realize how special this place is…it’s nice to have people come to remind me.

The man who cares for the chickens is one of my favorite workers to interact with on the farm. He’s an older man that usually wears shirts that are practically down to his knees. I’ve never admired someone so much that I don’t even speak the same language. You can tell that he hasn’t had the easiest life but he’s one of the sweetest people. As I said, we don’t speak the same language but I enjoy conversing with him through hand gesters, grunts, and a little Kinyarwanda. I’ve gotten good at guessing what people are saying based on the context. He works more hours than anyone on the farm. He spends lots of the day collecting grass for the hens. There’s a special kind here that helps to make the yoke yellow (the Rwandans dislike what they call “modern” chickens which usually have white yokes but by giving the grass, they will turn yellow). I love watching him bring in the grass. The hens follow him around until he gives them the grass.

Last night all the volunteers had a meeting at the director’s house. He said, “You know Amy that you have the best job in the village.” I totally agree!

Crazy Foreigner

Sometimes I wonder how things actually get done around here. I went to a meeting today and after everyone was at least 15 minutes late, people talked more about the process of the meeting instead of the topic at hand. Also whenever I go to Kigali on business a 3 hour trip…turns into 5 or 6. I’m learning that’s just how it is around here. I’m learning how not to get frustrated when things don’t happen as you hope or plan.

A few days ago Solomon and I were talking. He asked how long I will be here for and I said around 1 year. He told me that I need to stay 10 years because who is he going to laugh at if I’m gone. I was very touched by his question and response. We do laugh a lot together and have a great time. I get into rants sometimes on how things should be here or when the persistent Israeli inside of me comes out and all he does is laugh. I have my share of laughs at/with him also. There’s one instance that I wish he was there for…I even had to laugh at myself…

I’ve been trying for over 2 weeks to get sawdust for the floor of the chicken coop. We bought all of our furniture from a company in Kigali and they agreed to provide with the sawdust from the making of furniture. All we need to do is bring the sacs and they will fill them for us. I sent others to do it and it never seemed to happen. I decided to take matters into my own hands. First I went to bring the sacs and it was very easy to make happen. Others tried before and it wasn’t so easy. One of the drivers tried to pick up the filled sacs and they wouldn’t let him get them (still not really sure why not). Again I had to go to Kigali to get them. I walked into the building and was greeted by someone who worked there. I told him about the sacs and he said to wait that he would get a manager. After a few minutes I went back up to him and said that I know where to go and it I could just walk in. He said sure and I headed in. I got many stares as I walked past many workers. I walked into the area with the wood and found the sacs. I looked around aimlessly to find the man that I know speaks English. I know the workers must have been thinking who is this crazy foreigner. I asked where we should bring the car to pick them up. I was told to drive around to the back. After arriving to the back, I asked where the area with the wood was located. They looked at me as if I was crazy. They asked who I spoke to inside. I told them that I was just inside and told to drive around here. I got many blank stares. I decided again to take matters into my own hand and just walked in (normally I would not do this, but I knew I was supposed to be there). After a few minutes the security guard realized to just walked in and began to follow me. I went to get the sacs and he realized everything was okay. I was a funny scene though. After loading up the 11 full sacs, the guard asked for amafuranga (one of the few Kinyarwanda words that I know) which means money. I laughed and said oya amafuranga (no money!) and I finally got the sacs! I told Solomon the story and I course be enjoyed a good laugh.

Lessons on How to Eat Bread

As much as I enjoy being around everyone in the village, it's very important for me to have friends outside of the village. Kigali is an hour away...I do have friends there but it's far and I can only get there about 2 times a month. Rubona is the closest village with place to buy things. It reminds me of a South Georgia flea market with no paved roads and bicycles instead of cars. On Tuesday and Friday center of Rubona is bustling with people buying goods at the market and the other days it looks like a ghost town expect for the bike shop and local bar where you're always sure to find people. It's hard to describe...it's like no place I've ever seenbefore. I'm going to take pictures and give a tour of Rubona. I have come to love the little village.

We had a sick mother cow on the farm because she had a hard labor. There was a vet that came to check on her. One day the vet brought someone that was learning to be a vet. He's just a year older than me and we became friends. He was one of the only English speakers and helped to fill me in on what was happening with the cow. I enjoyed speaking with him and we made plans for me to visit him at his home in Rubona.

Last weekend I visited him and I really enjoyed meeting his family. There house is behind the market and next to the bicycle parking lot. He lives with his aunt, uncle, and their family of 4 children. There's also another boy that lives with them who is 21 and speaks english very well. He told me that his family is very poor and came to live with this family because the mother love Jesus. This was his words and I found it funny the way that he said it. I think it's wonderful how giving this family is to him. I stayed at there home for a few hours and enjoyed speaking with them. I even got delicious bread and fanta. It was so awkward when they brought out the bread. 3 pieces of bread were brought out and 1 fork. I took a piece of bread and then the mama through tranlation asked why I didn't wash my hands. I didn't know what to say or do...I finally said that I had washed them at home. Everyone else was using their hands, why couldn't I? The father came in a little later and I learned that he's a farmer and grows many things. When I heard this through translation, I said oh that's cool, he's a farmer just like me! I think they were very surprised and laughed. We decided that we'd visit each others farm. They asked about computers and wondered if I would teach them, we made plans to have a lesson the next weekend.

I arrived at their home on Saturday for a computer lesson...how do you teach computers to someone who has never used one? We started with the basics on turning it off and on. I'm a tough teacher and even gave them homework. They have to study the different keys, where they are located, and their function. I realized after that I would even have a problem with this assignment. I was even given the delicious bread again and banana juice (it was my first time having it...and it was tasty!) After the week before, I was not sure how to eat the bread. The mama finally brought out a small bag that I was to use as a glove to eat the bread. Out of the 2 other people, one used his hands and the other used a fork. The different ways to eat the bread made me laugh.

I really enjoy my time with the family and look forward to seeing them again soon! I have many families in Rwanda...that's one of the wonderful things about this country, you always have family around. At school I studied child and family development and one of my classes was on families. In the class we tried to define what a family is and I think this country is making me redefine what is family.

1st Rwandan Cowgirl

I want to get a sense of what is happening on the farm and the roles of all the workers. I decided that I would take a day to shadow different workers. Today I began with the cows. I arrived to the farm around 6 and got to work. My first task was to milk the cows. The cow man in the village is so fast at milking. I’ve never seen someone milk the way the he does. As he crouches next to the cow, he looks so compact. I don’t think I could get that low. He puts the bucket between his legs and used both hands. It was my turn next. I held the bucket in one hand and milked with other. I’m left handed and was milking with my left hand. The men kept telling me to switch hands. I tried to explain that I use my left hand. It was hard at first. I’m used to milking goats not cows and began to milk the way to do goats. The cow man said that I could come again and in a few days I’d be great.

Next it was time to take the cows for a walk. They get walked around the perimeter of the village which is 6km. We took 6 grown cows and 2 of the babies with us. I went with one of the workers who is trying very hard to learn English. He also asked me if girls in America work with cows. I told him that a girl can work with cows if she chooses. He seemed surprised (I love to surprise and shock the workers, there are many thoughts here of who does what, I like to think that I’m changing some of those perceptions). I enjoyed the walk…especially when we reached a certain point that has many fruit trees. I (along with the cows) ate many, many mangos. I didn’t think anyone/thing could eat as many mangos as me…I think the cows win. I even ate guava for the first time. I learned all the places with fruit trees that others do not know about. When I brought back many avocados everyone began asking where to get them. I think I’m keep them as my secret.  

Ode to the Unexpected

I get asked from many Rwandans that I meet what's the difference between Rwanda and the United States...there are MANY differences. The biggest one that I keep coming back to is the difference in the way people view time. Things just don't happen when you want or expect them to happen. I've experienced this on numerous occasions and I'm becoming the queen of patience. But lately I'm been surprised. It's so incredible when people surprise you. I've been thinking about those little things that people do that can change your day around. Last week, I was trying for many days to get a driver to take stones from the school to the farm so that we can finish the second chicken coop. I'm not allowed to drive...sometimes it would make my life so much easier if I could just drive in the village. Finally we agreed on Saturday. On Friday we came to my house and was ready to drive! I was shocked and so happy that I didn't have to keep chasing him down. It felt good to have confidence that even with the way they view time, people surprise you and things happen. Today I walked into lunch late (when you come in late, it's hard to find a plate and food). I was dreading having to run around to find a plate. I walked in and someone that I didn't even know just handed me a plate. They were both very small things that made my day.